Hodgemoor Woods

Nigel RothwellOn Thursday the 18th June a number of the Chiltern District Welsh Society were treated to an historical and archaeological walk around Hodgemoor Woods led by Nigel Rothwell and his wife Janet.

To quote two members of the group after the event: “I really enjoyed it and it was very informative. I will look at woods with new eyes from now on.” “I thought the talk today was amazing. I loved every minute of it! “ Indeed it was. Nigel had done a great deal of preparation and we were all supplied at the beginning with a booklet containing maps, photos and diagrams for reference during the walk.

We started with the Iron Age and Roman times – did you know that a road from Verulamium (St Albans) runs right through the wood? The Lidar map showed it up beautifully and Nigel was able to show us parts of the Roman road. The same map revealed an Iron Age farmstead and field system through which the road later passed. Lidar is a remote sensing technology that uses laser pulses to measure precise distances and generate highly accurate, 3D models and topographic maps of environments. Then on to an Anglo Saxon homestead and medieval field patterns with their characteristic ridge and furrow system.

Our GroupWalking through the woods we were at the edge of the Parish of Seer Green. In the Domesday Book  Seer Green was recorded as a detached woodland portion of the Manor of Farnham (later Farnham Royal). The land was governed by a companion of William the Conqueror, Bertram de Verdun. This is where a Welsh connection comes in. De Verdun was also a Marcher Lord!

The woods were at one time fields which gradually became wooded through the Middle Ages. Names of fields such as Further Brickmill Field gave evidence of the brick making industry that took place, together with the huge pits in the wood where the clay was dug out.  Nigel was by profession a geologist so he gave us insight into why the pits, and other features such as springs were in the place they were. The underlying ground being chalk in the south-eastern corner of the wood, overlaid in the centre with clay and further north with a top layer of sand and gravel.

It was fascinating to hear of the local Chalfont St Giles “Pest House”. Apparently most parishes had one for locals with contagious  diseases. It was situated on the very limit of the Parish and was only demolished round about the end of the second World War when found not fit for habitation.

During the Second World War the woods served as temporary billeting for various units, including Northamptonshire Territorials and the 51st Highland Division.

Following WW2 Hodgemoor Woods served as a Polish Resettlement Camp for allied soldiers and their families and we were shown the remains of the necessary Effluent Treatment Plant that was built for the camp. The Camp only closed down in 1962. We spotted the remains of their telegraph system way up in a large Scots Pine!

A fascinating morning. We have walked through Hodgemoor Woods on many occasions without realizing the wealth of history literally beneath our feet.

Our thanks to Nigel and his wife Janet. CDWS has made a contribution to the Seer Green and Jordans Society, of which Nigel is an active  member.

The morning was rounded off with a very pleasant lunch at The White Hart in Chalfont St Giles.

A morning to remember.

Janet John 18/6/2026

A Tudor Walk in Amersham

The participants in our special Tudor walk gathered at the Amersham Museum on a dry and pleasant morning. Three guides dressed in Tudor costume were ready to lead us.

We crossed over the road to stand by the Kings Arms and receive an introduction to our tour. To our surprise, one of our guides addressed us in fluent Welsh. Though born and raised locally, Kat was of Welsh descent and had learnt the language with the help of her family from North Wales. To the relief of many, Peter Borrows then repeated the introduction in English.

Peter was our lead guide, dressed all in woollen clothing with a cap on his head, britches over his legs, and the ensemble finished off by a codpiece, an essential item of male Tudor garb.

The tour took us past the Market to St Mary’s church, then across the stream to the entrance of the town cemetery, then along the riverside and up to the meadow overlooking the town. Finally we moved across to the Martyr’s memorial, before returning to the old town. Most of the group then went to the Elephant & Castle for a rest and to refuel.

The tour was very informative and full of surprising insights into life in Amersham during Tudor times. We also discovered the origins of many everyday expressions that originated in that period.

The first surprise was to discover that so many of the buildings we could see dated from Tudor times.  The Kings Arms with its timber beams was one fine example of a building from the Tudor period, but others were less obvious as they had been updated with more modern (Georgian) facades. We were told to look down the alleys and passageways at the side walls of the buildings. These views revealed their Tudor origins.

We learned about the market established by Charter. It had strict start and end times for stall-holders to trade. Rather than wait for the market to open, some sellers and London buyers of wool would agree a transaction privately, hence the verb to “forestall”.

As we approached the church we met three more women dressed in Tudor costume. These ladies all had their heads covered, a necessity to protect from itchy debris and lice when living under thatched rooves. Their bodices were laced up – some were “straight laced” but crossed lacing indicated different standards of behaviour!

Inside St Mary’s, we discovered the origin of more everyday expressions. As church attendance was compulsory it would have been standing room only inside, with no pews to sit on. The aged and infirm however could find support around the sides, hence the saying “the weak go to the wall”. Services were in Latin and for Communion services the priest would repeatedly pop out from behind a screen, say a few words of Latin,  then pop back out of sight again. The locals of course knew little if any Latin so the priest’s unintelligible incantations were referred to as Hocus Pocus a parody of the Latin phrase “hoc est enim corpus meum” (this is my body). Therefore the priest was doing the Hokey Cokey!

Wise Woman in AmershamWe met again with the three other women. One was the Wise Woman, who sold herbs and potions for medicinal purposes. She trod a fine line between providing a health service and being accused of witchcraft. Life was hard for most people and meat was a luxury. A family meal might be a pot of vegetables with a very small portion of meat. It was “pot luck” for whoever pulled out a ladleful with the piece of meat in it.

The Martyr’s Memorial was a poignant reminder of harsher times. Their crime was to read the Bible in English, an act seen as a challenge to the authority of the Church and its bishops. They were burned at the stake, with the daughter of the first victim made to light the fire. Ironically, within less than a century English language bibles were to be found in all Anglican churches. A play about those events is held every four or so years in Amersham, and for those that haven’t seen it, preparations have already begun for the next performance in 2027. Well worth seeing.

Having thanked Peter and his team for leading such an informative walk for us, our party dispersed with a number of us retiring to the Elephant & Castle for a welcome lunch.

Gwyndaf John

Christmas Drinks 2025

This year Ann Evans not only hosted our Summer Lunch, but our Christmas Drinks too!

Margaret Pip & Rose

On Sunday 7th December, 40 members turned up at her house to celebrate the festive season and this year it didn’t snow, but was rather drizzly. This didn’t stop us enjoying ourselves though.

Kay Day and Ann welcomed everyone in and gave them a name badge, which was useful as this year we had a few new members (and also handy if you couldn’t remember someone’s name).

Di & Jagger

Colin & Diane Thomas stood inside serving drinks (the prosecco was very popular) as guests moved into the conservatory, and Ann Tennant’s daughter-in-law, Jagger, was in the kitchen preparing canapes for everyone.

It was great to see so many old friends again, but I noticed that this year there were  fewer Christmas jumpers on display.

A number of volunteers, including Kay and David, acted as waitresses (and waiters) coming round with what seemed like an endless stream of food, ranging from cheese

Jean & John

puffs and prawns with mange-tout to the ever popular cocktail sausages.

Time seemed to whiz by and soon Ann and Gwyndaf John were handing out carol sheets while Michael Owen led us through a number of our favourites. As always, everyone joined in singing with gusto and we finished with the National Anthem.

 

Many thanks to Ann for being such a gracious and welcoming hostess.

More photos here

October Walk in Chalfont St Giles

We all met at Milton’s Cottage at 10am on Friday 10th October. Most of us arrived early and, as the weather was good gathered in the garden.

This pretty cottage was built in the late 15th Century for workers on the local estate, The Vache.

We were hosted by Kelly, who showed us around the cottage and described its history and the life and works of John Milton. Kelly was remarkably knowledgeable, answering all  sorts of questions as she showed around the 3 or 4 rooms open.

The cottage may be very small, but there was so much to see and read.

Milton took refuge from the plague in London by escaping to this cottage in 1665, and, although he lived here for less than two years, wrote his most famous work Paradise Lost and began Paradise Regained, whilst living here with his third wife.

Milton was a staunch republican, who wrote books and pamphlets in support of regicide, the abolition of the monarchy and divorce, but was spared from retribution during the restoration of the monarchy.

The cottage contains many of his original works as first and second editions along with artifacts from his time.

Chalfont St Giles ChurchWe then walked down the hill to the parish church of Chalfont St Giles. Here we met our guide Tony Ferguson, who is not only an author and speaker, but also a member of the St Giles watch, which helps to ensure that the church remains open to visitors.

The church itself dates back to around 1150, during the reign of Henry II, but has been remodelled several times over the following centuries. Parts of the original Norman church are clearly visible  and on the wall is a list of the rectors through the years dating back to the early 13th century.

One of the most striking features of the church is a set of 14th century wall paintings depicting scenes from the bible. These were discovered and revealed by the Victorians, but about 20 years ago suffered damage as a result of thieves taking lead from the roof.

 

Tony also pointed out ancient graffiti around the church dating back to the time of the civil war and a stained glass window with a small depiction of the devil, though he was a very small figure inside a red circle of hell!Stained Glass wondow at Chalfont St Giles Church

Outside we were shown interesting features and graves, including a method used to protect the recently buried from ‘the resurrection men’ by placing long heavy stones across the grave.

After a very interesting tour of the church, we continued our walk into the village, ending up at the pub, ‘Merlin’s Cave’ for lunch.

Thanks to Gwyndaf for arranging this interesting and informative outing.

2024 AGM

On 10th May we held our 24th AGM at Coleshill Village Hall.

There was an excellent turnout of 38 members.

Chairman Gwyndaf John opened proceedings at 6:30 welcoming several members who have not been with us for a while and several  new members. He then moved on to the formal part of the evening, going through apologies for absence, approval of last year’s minutes and running through all the events that we have held during 2023/4.

Membership stands at 113 plus 4 honorary members

Lloyd Jones gave us his report as Treasurer saying that the Society actually had a surplus of £475 over the year, with a bank balance of £4419.96. Lloyd explained that we have kept membership at £10 per year and that the Committee tries to make each event break even.

Gwyndaf revealed that our Minutes Secretary, Colin Picton, is standing down to spend more time with his grandchildren, and thanked Colin for his years of work as secretary and as our previous chairman.

Our committee is now short staffed and we really need at least one more volunteer to help with the planning and organisation. The position is not very arduous, and only involves about 6 meetings per year held in one of the committee members’ homes.

The existing committee was then unanimously voted in for another year’s term.

Under ‘Any Other Business’ the possibility of another trip to Wales was raised. We can not hope to rival the trips that Jonathan Peglar planned in previous years, but could use a commercial company to arrange a trip for us if there is sufficient support.

There was a broad approval for this idea.

At 7:00 the chairman closed the formal part of the evening and Ann Tennant appeared to serve everyone supper.

It is always a wonder that Ann can do so much on her own. There was an excellent choice of a chicken or a beef main course and a wide variety of deserts.

After the meal, our speaker took the floor.

Our own Treasurer, Lloyd Jones, had been persuaded to talk to us about his time in the police force, more particularly, in Special Branch.

Lloyd started his career in Gwent Constabulary, moving to Panda cars and then to CID.

The chief constable of Gwent was quite adventurous for the time, and as well as introducing the panda cars, also took up the offer to create a Special Branch within Gwent. It was quite a coincidence that the Chief Constable’s daughter is one of our newest members – Gail Baldwin!

Lloyd volunteered for this embryo Special Branch with tasks such as providing VIP security and monitoring shipping.

Lloyd was trained both by the Metropolitan Police in London and by the SAS in Herefordshire.

After 6 or 7 years he was moved from Gwent to the Metropolitan Police Special Branch, which was a far larger organisation.

Lloyd described the Force’s organisation and the different squads within the force, covering Head of State protection, Irish Terrorism, Extremist organisations, Naturalisation issues, Rest of World threats and Surveillance.

He described how surveillance is very discreet and involves very large teams following suspects, who, under normal circumstances, would never know that they were being followed. However, this can be difficult if the team has to travel to small locations.

Lloyd described some of the duties of personnel in the protection squad. This included planning the VIPs travel, liaising with local security staff, checking exits, seating arrangement and billing etc. It also meant that the security team ate in the best restaurants and travelled first class with their charges. Often the VIPs had quite a close relationship with those they were protecting. Lloyd recalled that Margaret  Thatcher objected to her Special Branch operatives being changed and would sometimes offer to make them tea!

The UK security staff were discreet as opposed to US security which tended to make themselves obvious.

UK staff used to use Walther PPK pistols, but changed to bulkier Smith & Wesson revolvers after an incident when the automatic pistol jammed. Lloyd described the care and maintenance of the weapons and the firing practise that they undertook.

When Lloyd worked at Special Branch it was just before computers were widely used and in those days all record keeping and research was carried out by hand with Desk Officers and civilian staff.

Not so long afterwards the Flying Squad, Art & Antiques Squad and Special Branch were all brigaded within ‘Specialist Operations’ and the National Crime Agency assumed some of these roles.

 

We all found Lloyd’s talk fascinating and Gwyndaf led a vote of thanks for such an interesting and informative talk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spring Walk 2024

A tale of two churches

This year Gwyndaf and Janet John took us to The Lee for our Spring Walk.

We met at 10:00 at the Cock and Rabbit Inn by the village green and placed our orders for lunch.

There were about 26 walkers, with the welcome addition of 5 of our newest members joining us.

Gwyndaf explained that the recent history of The Lee has been associated with the Liberty family (of Regent Street fame) and that the original pub had been on the green itself, but was demolished and a new one built across the road, as the original pub had spoilt the view from Liberty’s manor house!

Janet had secured the help of a local guide and old friend – Trish Swain to help us as she was able to grant us access to the old church. Trish breeds hearing dogs, and brought a spaniel called Tammy along with her. We had a whip round for ‘Hearing Dogs for the Blind’ and were able to raise £118 for the cause.

First we visited the new church which was built in Victorian times (1867), to house the growing population of the village. Unusually for a Victorian church, it was built in the ‘Arts and Crafts’ style rather than gothic. The church bell was taken from the old church and is said to date from about 1290.

It was very light and airy inside. We were told that when the first world war was declared the local men were engaged in a cricket match and they all stopped playing and went to sign up. Many of them never returned. In 2014 a service was held to remember their bravery.

Trish then took us on a path leading behind the new church to a much smaller building. This dated back to about 1220, built by the Cistercian  monks at Missenden Abbey  on a site of an older wooden church. One of the first things that we noticed were the old sun dials on the exterior wall. These were Mass Clocks, for telling the time for mass.

Inside there were traces of the medieval wall Doom painting showing the weighing of souls and another depicting St Christopher.

Above the entrance, was the coat of arms of the Plaistowe family, Lords of the Manor from the 17th century.

The stained glass windows are also of interest. At the very top is one of the original windows dating back to the 13th century and showing the crucifixion, and the figures of St Mary and St John. Below that, the main window depicts three puritans including John Hampden in the centre and Oliver Cromwell to his left. This window was originally meant to be for the church in Little Hampden,  but was rejected as it contained the figure of Cromwell.

Gwyndaf then led us off on our walk through the countryside around The Lee. Outside the pub stands a curious stone structure which looked a bit like a modern art installation, but in fact is a natural feature called a puddingstone.

We then walked through the woods, which were carpeted with wild garlic and their aroma filled the air. Some of our walkers took the opportunity to gather leaves as they can make a very good pesto. Luckily, it had not been raining recently so the path was not very muddy.

Where there was more light in the woods, there were banks of beautiful bluebells.

Gwyndaf then took us through the village where we saw an old school, now used as private houses. This used to be known as the plaiting school, as the young girls there used to plait straw which was then transported to Luton to be made into straw hats! I’m not sure how much schooling the girls received.

As The Lee is quite high up, there are no streams and the village used to rely on a pond for its water. In 1897, in the year of Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, a well was dug to provide clean water. This was quite a task, as the well is 365 feet deep, 4 foot six inches wide, and the workers had to rely on candles for their light and a blacksmith’s bellows to provide ventilation. It was commissioned by Sir Arthur Liberty and built by Liberty’s craftsmen.

The well has two enormous buckets, which were used to counter-balance each other. The well was still in use until the 1950’s.

From the well we continued through the village, with houses commissioned by Liberty for his workers, both labourers and management.

We went past the new manor house that Liberty had built – and in front of it stood a most incongruous figurehead from an old fashioned sailing ship. It is the figurehead of the ’Lord Howe’, one of the last wooden sailing battleships, purchased as salvage by Liberty for the timbers which were used in the construction of the Liberty store.

We were running late, so we  made a hasty retreat back to the Cock and Rabbit in time for lunch where the food was very good.

Rob Britton stood and proposed a vote of thanks to Gwyndaf, Janet and Trish.

Thanks to all three (and Tammy) for a lovely walk.

 

 

St David’s Day Dinner 2024

St David’s Day Black Tie Dinner – held on 1st March at Gerrards Cross Golf Club

All 50 guests were greeted with a glass of bubbly or soft drink – as appropriate.  The lounge provided an excellent space to catch up with old friends and indeed some guests from the principality – Whitland to be precise. I was delighted to meet with the brother of one of my classmates at Narberth Grammar School. Our mutual aquaintances were numerous; a joyful start to the evening.

As usual Gerrards Cross Club did us proud with a very good 3 course meal; the leek and potato soup was so good I thought my mum must have had a hand in it. There were also many compliments directed at the sewin ( sea trout) – main course as well as the suitable lamb dish. The staff looked after us well and added to the friendly ambience of the evening.

 

The after-dinner entertainment was provided by a harpist – Lucy Hewitt.  A local artiste who attended Dr. Challoner’s High School in Little Chalfont. In 2021 she was the Bucks Young Musician of the Year. She concluded her Harp pieces with the Welsh National Anthem – which was accompanied by all guests singing with gusto.

 

 

The evening concluded with “community singing” around the Electronic Keyboard – superbly played by John Breeze. Six hymns ( 3 in Welsh and 3 in English) ensured that we all departed with ‘a song in our heart’.

Well done to the Committee for a very successful evening and fluent compering from Gwyndaf John – with both amusing and informative potted history of St. David.

Da iawn.

Gwyn Owen  5/03/24

 

You can see more photographs of the evening here.

Quiz Night 2024

19th January 2024

We all gathered at Coleshill Village Hall at 7pm for our first engagement of the year.

30 of us formed into 5 teams to do battle in Colin Picton’s Quiz Evening.

We were pleased to welcome some new (and newish) members and their guests –

Lorraine Boyd and her partner, Ian,  also Heather Roberts with her son Mark Roberts and daughter Susan Paul.

Chairman Gwyndaf John opened proceedings and handed over to Kate Picton to give an update on Jonathan Pegler’s progress in hospital. We all wished him a speedy recovery

Colin set us the first task of coming up with team names.

 

Team names were:

Lloydia (reflecting Gwyndaf and Janet John’s adventure finding a rare lily on Snowdon)
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (thanks to Bill Jones)
Wyddfa (Snowdon)
Old Speckled Hen (reflecting the team’s tipple of choice)
The Magnificent 7 (the team having a numerical advantage)

Colin’s quiz had a definite Welsh theme with rounds on…… Welsh Celebs, Welsh Geography and Welsh History.

There were 8 rounds of questions plus a picture round. However, the questions were not as difficult as some that we have had in previous years and even the English players were able to answer most of the questions.

At 8pm the Fish and Chips were delivered, and we paused to enjoy them. The Village Chippy at Three Households really does a fine job.

After our meal, the quiz continued, and in the end, Lloydia won by a comfortable margin.

The final scores were:

Lloydia                                              172
Llanfair pg                                        164
Wyddfa                                             130
Speckled Hen                                   123
The Magnificent 7                             150

 

There were no prizes, just the honour and bragging rights for winning (I have to say that Mr John did look rather smug).

Gwyndaf then thanked Colin on behalf of all the participants for all the work that he had put in to devising and running the quiz and we cleared up and went home just after 10pm.

Thanks again to Colin for all his hard work.